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BMW R27 1

   Reliability and safe operation are top of the list in our restoration. Not every nut and bolt needs work. Acknowledge 50 years of service and value the workmanship of German factories in the 1960s. Original concourse condition to be maintained where possible. New old stock parts when available. The carburetor is very dirty and in need of service so it has its own page here. 
Only 15364 R27s were manufactured from 1960 to 1966.
Last R27s manufactured were called 1967s by dealers. 

Last 1967 made # 387 566 Yours is # 386 702 (the 864 to last)
 Motor and frame serial numbers match.
     I started with the front of the motor where the electrical system generator is housed under a cover. The area was reasonably clean and dry. Commutator brushes look less than 50% but OK state. I found commutator rotor dirty with carbon. I wiped it clean with solvent. Condenser in compartment for wires going to block at bottom screws tight but seized so WD-40 placed on each. One empty terminal. The wiring looks original in fair condition, insulation crusty. No oil drips in bottom clean. Cover fits good three screws not too bad. Top electrical rubber boot could allow water into compartment and no cover gasket. 6 Volts all over. Unit putting out DC current necessary for good cylinder ignition and smooth operation. This was confirmed on startup and idle runs.

Even though the brushes have less than 50% life they can continue to for several more kilometers. Changing well seated and operating brushes is unnecessary now. Recommended parts: Condenser, new brushes, rubber boot and wire. Open front cover and you can see the distributor. Past the good condition counterweight to the ignition contact points. Free and easy moving spring back. Distributor in good serviced condition. It's certainly not old and rusty. The gasket in place is in good shape. The engine is painted.
 
Motor mount attaching the top of the cylinder head above the carburetor to the from frame is torn off. BMW#226 295 655 04 needs replacement. 3 other motor mounts are fair and one oily. Recommended parts: complete set of five new motor mounts
Front wheel and tire:
Spokes check out all good. In fair shape. Chrome steel rim. The two red dots on the tire do not match the valve stem. Recommended size of Metzeler tire in great shape.
  Right side handlebar throttle grip and assembly operational but recoil of hand grip poor and uneven. Front brake lever operates well. The top cover does not close properly where the cable enters and joins on the worn chain drive interior. It has been freshly greased. When I sat on the motorcycle and lunged forward; The front end responded with a slight raise and firm braking. Earls fork operation quiet and cushy. There is 50 years wear on parts in the front fork assembly. The headlight works. High/ low switch works. Horn and switch operational. The horn is a newer aftermarket part. Recommend parts: Worn brass inner drive ring to chain assembly and throttle cable with rubber boots.

The rear wheel is a chromed steel with recommended Metzeler rubber in great condition. One spoke rings dull when tested. It is marked with red. The rear brake, lever and linkage need attention. Once the rear hub break shoes are engaged it will not freely disengage. The lever must be pulled back by hand to release the wheel. The linkage also interferes with the rear foot peg. A wire is broken off the switch. However, the rear suspension moves smoothly and quietly up and down when pushed.

The rear foot brake operation will need to be addressed. The condition or parts required cannot be observed inside the rear hub.