Once I removed
the fuel tank, the wiring harness can be seen running along the upper
frame rail the voltage regulator appears to be in good shape and performing its
duties, however it is several years old as is the ignition coil. I recommend
replacement of these inexpensive parts. They disable motorcycle operation completely
if they fail. The existing parts will become spares. Two bolts missing from securing the tank. Original patina coloured clips secure the main harness traveling along the frame. It’s outer covering insulation is in good shape.
Headlight is beautiful
Farthest
from the battery is the headlight / ignition control switch. The whole original
assembly has been replaced with new parts in the last couple of years. The
ignition switch and bulb holder was also installed at this time. It is dry and
clean inside the headlight casing. The wire leads inside the headlight are in
excellent condition.
The terminals of the
electrical connections have been made professionally and soundly. The condition of the
wiring harness inside the headlight is very good. The rubber grommet exiting
the back of the headlight needs service as the wire fits loosely. I recommend sealing up any points where water could get in. Hopefully, the speedo is ready to go. I recommend spare 6v bulbs all
around. Tail, instrument and headlight. Running Motorcycle confirms proper operation of instrument lights and switching.
The battery
compartment area raises concerns due to its generally poor condition overall rusty
spots and electrical components that look to be in average shape. The main wire
connections to the battery have been replaced with loose dry style crimp connectors. It appears possible that the wiring harness can be restored in the
battery box area, due to the very good shape of the rest of the harness and
electrical system, mainly the headlight assembly, entire wiring harness
replacement not required. I recommend replacing the exposed wire ends, heat
shrink to water tight original harness, solder stub ends for screw down
connections, replace the terminal block and re-assemble it all together. The
battery strap is torn. The main electrical block is in poor shape.
The
lead acid 6 V battery appears to be doing its job. Replace all original parts in this area. A gel
version of a battery can prevent spills on rough roads and provide consistent power. The air box battery holder original assembly needs removal and restoration.There is a bolt missing from the rider's seat suspension visible below.
High / low switch works. Horn and switch operational.The front fork tension control knob holds the handlebars tight at one side of the adjustment and then clicks back to release tension incrementally. The headlight and ignition switch operate well. The cover is pushy to open/snaps back forcefully. Two handed operation is best to prevent damage to the plastic. It is commonly broken. Yours is near new, so it should be good. Do you have a key for the handlebar lock? The single rear view mirror is in poor shape. We should choose a nice new set. Euro style handlebars. Rubber hand grips in very good shape. Chrome poor in places. 54690km.
The horn is a newer aftermarket part, loud and safe. (Original one was French.) Ignition coil looks tired. Wire is in good shape. replace coil and clean up connections.
